I used very simple shape, similar to ordinary metal spoons. It is perfectly symetrical, even if it doesn't seem so because of the wavy wood pattern.
23 November 2014
Beauty in Simplicity
After a long time I carved a spoon from radially cut peach wood. Radial cut is like when you split a log and you see the growth rings as parallel lines on the split surface. Well, they are not as parallel on this spoon because the wood formed a slight spiral.
Radial cut has its advantages: the spoon is stronger because the fibers are parallel with the handle, and it is more easy to crank the handle because the wood does not peel off so much during cutting (but this is rather hard to explain, you'd have to try it :))
I had a fancy for Viennese nougat all the time because some shavings look just like nougat...
9 October 2014
Swedish-Style Birch Spoon
Many experienced carvers don't like sandpaper, some of them almost fanatically. They say that people don't try to carve better when they know that the imperfect tool cuts would be sanded anyway. Moreover, when you sand a spoon and wash it, the wood fibers swell and create a "hairy" texture, which makes the spoon unpleasant to touch. Sanding the spoon so that the grain would not rise is quite difficult and slow. And many people just like the tool cut finish.
Maybe there is something to it - but unsanded spoons seem unfinished to me and I'm not particularly fond of tool cut finish. The harder wood you use, the less fiber raises after sanding and washing - so for example my applewood spoon is smooth like glass, while a spoon from limewood just remained hairy even after the finest sandpaper.
But this time I decided to make an exception and carve a spoon just like I saw on other carvers' blogs - from softer, green wood, without sanding - just to see how it turns out. The inspiration comes from
this blog.
Birch wood surprised me in several aspects: it gains a reddish hue when exposed to the air, and after drying it smells a bit like fried oil. It does not look porous, but when I dipped the finished spoon into walnut oil, it released lots of tiny bubbles and the wood absorbed so much oil that the thinnest parts became a bit translucent...
The spoon looks quite fine without sanding...
... but I'm not content with the chip carving decoration. I have to work on it a little more...
Maybe there is something to it - but unsanded spoons seem unfinished to me and I'm not particularly fond of tool cut finish. The harder wood you use, the less fiber raises after sanding and washing - so for example my applewood spoon is smooth like glass, while a spoon from limewood just remained hairy even after the finest sandpaper.
But this time I decided to make an exception and carve a spoon just like I saw on other carvers' blogs - from softer, green wood, without sanding - just to see how it turns out. The inspiration comes from
this blog.
Birch wood surprised me in several aspects: it gains a reddish hue when exposed to the air, and after drying it smells a bit like fried oil. It does not look porous, but when I dipped the finished spoon into walnut oil, it released lots of tiny bubbles and the wood absorbed so much oil that the thinnest parts became a bit translucent...
The spoon looks quite fine without sanding...
... but I'm not content with the chip carving decoration. I have to work on it a little more...
27 September 2014
Peach Cooking Spoon
There's a lot of information about wood on the internet, however, peach wood is almost unknown. The only information I found is that it can be used for smoking meat. Other fruitwoods like apple, plum and cherry are often used for carving, though.
When I noticed an interesting brown color on a broken peach tree, I decided to try the wood for carving nevertheless.
The finished spoon has darker and lighter strips and also a nice texture. I plan to make an eating spoon as well and test if the wood is as good as plum or cherry for carving.
When I noticed an interesting brown color on a broken peach tree, I decided to try the wood for carving nevertheless.
The wood is medium hard and it has a very interesting smell, a bit like cherries and a bit like lapacho tea.
I used my new axe to level the twisted wood and to produce this spoon blank (yes, I need more practice, but it's much better and faster than it used to be).
The finished spoon has darker and lighter strips and also a nice texture. I plan to make an eating spoon as well and test if the wood is as good as plum or cherry for carving.
26 September 2014
A New Axe!
I have always admired how precisely other spoon carvers can make their spoon blanks using only an axe. After a few not very successful attempts I realised that the problem is not in myself, but in my axe - so I ordered a new one :)
This axe can be used for felling trees and splitting logs, but it is particularly useful for carving. It can be held just behind the head for more precise cuts and it is so sharp that it can be used as a knife. If you have never cut your finger by moving it across an axe blade... well, it's possible.
I learned that a good axe can save lots of time and work when carving spoons... OK, enough advertisement for now, you'll see the results in the next posts...
This axe can be used for felling trees and splitting logs, but it is particularly useful for carving. It can be held just behind the head for more precise cuts and it is so sharp that it can be used as a knife. If you have never cut your finger by moving it across an axe blade... well, it's possible.
I learned that a good axe can save lots of time and work when carving spoons... OK, enough advertisement for now, you'll see the results in the next posts...
9 September 2014
Lemon-Scented Wood
The wood database says that lilac wood often has reddish or lavender color streaks throughout the heartwood. I acquired a few lilac logs in spring, but I was not very lucky - the wood is just ordinary brown and white.
Lilac trunks are not very wide, often rot from the inside out and often crack while drying. So why to waste your time with such a wood? Especially if it has no lavender streaks at all?
I can say that it is an excellent wood nevertheless. It is hard, but with even texture, nice pattern and gloss. And it smells very nice. Freshly cut logs had a strong lemon oil scent and after drying the smell resembles lemon soap.
The log I selected was naturally curved to create a spoon shape. When it started to crack, I sealed both ends with wax and let it dry slowly for about half a year.
I read that hard wood should be dried one year for each centimeter of thickness. But half a year was quite enough for this spoon blank. The wood stopped cracking and looked dry afterwards.
I tried to imitate this spoon, also carved from lilac.
The following picture shows the natural luster on the knife cuts. The smoothness of the wood contributed even more to the "soapy" impression.
There are two thin reddish lines around the pith - the only exotic colors present in this piece of wood :D It's also noteworthy that the boundary between heartwood and sapwood does not follow the growth rings.
Here is the spoon after sanding...
... and finished, sealed with oil.
Overall, I'm very happy with the result - both with the shape and with the wood structure and pattern.
Lilac trunks are not very wide, often rot from the inside out and often crack while drying. So why to waste your time with such a wood? Especially if it has no lavender streaks at all?
I can say that it is an excellent wood nevertheless. It is hard, but with even texture, nice pattern and gloss. And it smells very nice. Freshly cut logs had a strong lemon oil scent and after drying the smell resembles lemon soap.
The log I selected was naturally curved to create a spoon shape. When it started to crack, I sealed both ends with wax and let it dry slowly for about half a year.
I read that hard wood should be dried one year for each centimeter of thickness. But half a year was quite enough for this spoon blank. The wood stopped cracking and looked dry afterwards.
I tried to imitate this spoon, also carved from lilac.
The following picture shows the natural luster on the knife cuts. The smoothness of the wood contributed even more to the "soapy" impression.
There are two thin reddish lines around the pith - the only exotic colors present in this piece of wood :D It's also noteworthy that the boundary between heartwood and sapwood does not follow the growth rings.
Here is the spoon after sanding...
... and finished, sealed with oil.
Overall, I'm very happy with the result - both with the shape and with the wood structure and pattern.
27 August 2014
Spork
My brother asked me to make a spork, or a hybrid of spoon, fork and knife. I decided to carve it from a piece of cherry wood.
It was quite easy thanks to the plastic model - I always knew exactly which piece of wood should be cut off.
I even added the manufacturer logo. I made it with kolrosing and I used cocoa powder which leaves very dark, almost black color.
It was quite easy thanks to the plastic model - I always knew exactly which piece of wood should be cut off.
At first I planned to leave it with knife finish, so I carved it very smoothly.
In the end I decided to sand it to make it even more similar to its plastic model.
13 July 2014
Charming Cherry
The only spoon I bought so far is from craft market in Kezmarok and it's made from cherry wood.
At first I thought it was dyed; wood can't have such color naturally, right? Only much later I learned that it can.
I ran out of my favorite plumwood supplies, so I searched a pile of wood in our garden to find something usable. I found an old trunk and when I cut it into logs, a nice pink wood showed up. No one could remember where the trunk came from, but we'd cut an old cherry tree a few years ago, so this was probably it.
I wanted to carve another spoon and I made a spoon blank with axe, saw and chisel. But later I found an insect hole just where the bottom of the spoon bowl should be. And it was not the only dirty trick that this piece of wood prepared for me: there were hidden knots and a few cracks as well. So I carved a cooking spoon instead to avoid them.
Cherry wood is softer than apple or plum wood. It made the carving easier, so I carved the basic shape at one sitting. The inspiration came from a few cooking spoons from this article.
Interesting pattern and colors showed up after sealing, almost the same as on the spoon I bought before.
At first I thought it was dyed; wood can't have such color naturally, right? Only much later I learned that it can.
I ran out of my favorite plumwood supplies, so I searched a pile of wood in our garden to find something usable. I found an old trunk and when I cut it into logs, a nice pink wood showed up. No one could remember where the trunk came from, but we'd cut an old cherry tree a few years ago, so this was probably it.
I wanted to carve another spoon and I made a spoon blank with axe, saw and chisel. But later I found an insect hole just where the bottom of the spoon bowl should be. And it was not the only dirty trick that this piece of wood prepared for me: there were hidden knots and a few cracks as well. So I carved a cooking spoon instead to avoid them.
Cherry wood is softer than apple or plum wood. It made the carving easier, so I carved the basic shape at one sitting. The inspiration came from a few cooking spoons from this article.
Interesting pattern and colors showed up after sealing, almost the same as on the spoon I bought before.
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